Last week, from @Janice Badger Nelson: my husband and I watched documentaries about ships going there (to Antarctica). It looked so perilous however, especially Drake Passage. I would love to hear more from your interview about that passage. Looking forward to part 2. Jim: did you ever go by ship or were you always transported by plane? What insights can you share about the Drake Passage?
I crossed the Drake Passage only once as part of my job with the US Antarctic Program. It was on a ship named the Polar Duke, but we called it the Polar Puke, for obvious reasons. The Drake is reliably the roughest stretch of ocean in the world, though on rare occasions it can be as calm as a lake. Such was not the case on my crossing, though it wasn't as rough as I've heard it can become. Later I crossed it several times on a cruise ship, where I was a lecturer/naturalist. It was rough every time, but it wasn't nearly as uncomfortable on the cruise ship as it had been on the Puke.
It's really not that bad on a cruise ship because they are so big. And, of course, the bigger the better -- for the crossing anyway. You get a better trip on a smaller ship (200 or fewer passengers) because you get to do more landings in cool places. Seasickness is actually pretty easy to defeat. You nibble on saltine crackers (and maybe the occasional ginger snap), drink plenty of water to stay hydrated, and listen to your favorite music to take your mind off the motion. Jimmy Buffet does it for me. I can handle almost any sea condition if I have those three things. (And of course, there is always dramamine and scopalamine.) Bottom line: don't let fear of seasickness prevent you from seeing one of the most amazing places on Earth. Once you get out of the Drake, it's pretty much calm water.
This question came last week From @Mary Hutto Fruchter (Writes Mary’s Pocketful of Prose) for Jim:
Is it true that you have to have your appendix removed before traveling to Antarctica? How does 6 months of darkness effect mental health? How do people cope?
That's a lot of questions! First, no, one does not need to have one's appendix removed to go to Antarctica (unless it's going bad, of course). However, people may be required to have wisdom teeth removed. I did. Second, well, that is not a simple question. Everyone responds to the endless darkness in different ways. For most people, their sleep patterns are disrupted, sometimes severely. Dreams can become extremely vibrant and intense, much like what happens to people in isolation chambers. Some people become depressed. Others turn to alcohol. But most people seem to weather it very well. It especially helps if one keeps busy and has a lot of projects to do, both personal and work-related. I could go on and on about this!
Only that I didn't do it for another couple of years. Other than that, no. Not one. I'd do it all over again. There were times of drudgery and bureaucracy, sure, but the times of magic were much greater.
What do I miss the most? The diving. It is spectacular. You descend through a 4-foot diameter hole through six feet of sea ice into a fantasy world of ice caves, ice stalactites with super-cooled brine gushing out of them, Weddell seals swimming by, and an amazing plethora of invertebrates on the sea floor, which can be as rich with life as a coral reef. And the visibility was as much as 800 feet. You could see forever underwater. It was like flying. Plus, I could dive where no one else had ever gone and see things no human had ever seen. I miss all of that a lot. The most challenging part? Sometimes it seemed as though the winter would never end. I'm a Southern California beach boy who spent three years of his childhood in Hawaii, so going without sun and surf for so long was tough at times. It was ameliorated a little by the magic of the southern lights and ferocious storms.
I think she was there for three months and the research team stayed on the ship, which sounds a lot cozier than camping on the ice. She will be going back next year. No link to photos but they are working on a documentary.
I loved this Elizabeth. Thank you. It’s so fascinating and such a perfect read/listen on a quiet Sunday. I shall look for this book at my local independent book store.
Thank you for this wonderful post with all its links and sound bites! I loved it. I've also requested the Multnomah County Library buy the new book. I'm looking forward to reading it.
Last week, from @Janice Badger Nelson: my husband and I watched documentaries about ships going there (to Antarctica). It looked so perilous however, especially Drake Passage. I would love to hear more from your interview about that passage. Looking forward to part 2. Jim: did you ever go by ship or were you always transported by plane? What insights can you share about the Drake Passage?
I crossed the Drake Passage only once as part of my job with the US Antarctic Program. It was on a ship named the Polar Duke, but we called it the Polar Puke, for obvious reasons. The Drake is reliably the roughest stretch of ocean in the world, though on rare occasions it can be as calm as a lake. Such was not the case on my crossing, though it wasn't as rough as I've heard it can become. Later I crossed it several times on a cruise ship, where I was a lecturer/naturalist. It was rough every time, but it wasn't nearly as uncomfortable on the cruise ship as it had been on the Puke.
I may have to rethink a cruise to Antarctica now. Thank you!
It's really not that bad on a cruise ship because they are so big. And, of course, the bigger the better -- for the crossing anyway. You get a better trip on a smaller ship (200 or fewer passengers) because you get to do more landings in cool places. Seasickness is actually pretty easy to defeat. You nibble on saltine crackers (and maybe the occasional ginger snap), drink plenty of water to stay hydrated, and listen to your favorite music to take your mind off the motion. Jimmy Buffet does it for me. I can handle almost any sea condition if I have those three things. (And of course, there is always dramamine and scopalamine.) Bottom line: don't let fear of seasickness prevent you from seeing one of the most amazing places on Earth. Once you get out of the Drake, it's pretty much calm water.
This question came last week From @Mary Hutto Fruchter (Writes Mary’s Pocketful of Prose) for Jim:
Is it true that you have to have your appendix removed before traveling to Antarctica? How does 6 months of darkness effect mental health? How do people cope?
That's a lot of questions! First, no, one does not need to have one's appendix removed to go to Antarctica (unless it's going bad, of course). However, people may be required to have wisdom teeth removed. I did. Second, well, that is not a simple question. Everyone responds to the endless darkness in different ways. For most people, their sleep patterns are disrupted, sometimes severely. Dreams can become extremely vibrant and intense, much like what happens to people in isolation chambers. Some people become depressed. Others turn to alcohol. But most people seem to weather it very well. It especially helps if one keeps busy and has a lot of projects to do, both personal and work-related. I could go on and on about this!
Here's a question asked last week by @Sandra de Helen:
Question for Jim: do you have any regrets from your time spent in Antarctica?
Only that I didn't do it for another couple of years. Other than that, no. Not one. I'd do it all over again. There were times of drudgery and bureaucracy, sure, but the times of magic were much greater.
Fascinating. My questions would be: What did you miss the most? What was the most challenging part for you personally? 😊
What do I miss the most? The diving. It is spectacular. You descend through a 4-foot diameter hole through six feet of sea ice into a fantasy world of ice caves, ice stalactites with super-cooled brine gushing out of them, Weddell seals swimming by, and an amazing plethora of invertebrates on the sea floor, which can be as rich with life as a coral reef. And the visibility was as much as 800 feet. You could see forever underwater. It was like flying. Plus, I could dive where no one else had ever gone and see things no human had ever seen. I miss all of that a lot. The most challenging part? Sometimes it seemed as though the winter would never end. I'm a Southern California beach boy who spent three years of his childhood in Hawaii, so going without sun and surf for so long was tough at times. It was ameliorated a little by the magic of the southern lights and ferocious storms.
Wow that under-water world sounds simply breathtaking 😲 What an incredible life experience 🩵
I feel very lucky to have experienced it.
This story really captivated my interest. I loved the education and the excitement - may man help the penguins prevail.
Yes!
So cool! My cousin recently returned from an expedition to Antartica for a project involving seabirds. Her photos are extraordinary.
That sounds fascinating. How long was she there? Will she go back? Is there a link to her photos? I'd love to see them.
I think she was there for three months and the research team stayed on the ship, which sounds a lot cozier than camping on the ice. She will be going back next year. No link to photos but they are working on a documentary.
I loved this Elizabeth. Thank you. It’s so fascinating and such a perfect read/listen on a quiet Sunday. I shall look for this book at my local independent book store.
Thank you for this wonderful post with all its links and sound bites! I loved it. I've also requested the Multnomah County Library buy the new book. I'm looking forward to reading it.
That's great, Sandra! Requesting books from the library helps authors a lot, not to mention what it does for readers.
I've requested yours as well. I own it, but the library doesn't. Yet.
I’ll send them a copy if they decide they want it. It’s out of print but maybe they can opt to add the ebook.
I think they'll probably opt for the book when they can't get the print one.